When I travelled to Kinnaur, I was looking for apple orchards, picturesque mountains and photography opportunities. What I ended up focusing on was the food I ate in the region, as food is an uncomplicated way to get familiar with any location.
Consider a fresh apple on a walk, freshly baked bread in the morning and a plate of noodles after a long day, with each occasion giving one more reason to enjoy breakfast.
My first taste: A Kinnaur Apple
The apples were the first thing I wanted to try. In Sangla, I saw orchards beside the road and boxes of fruit ready to travel far beyond the valley. I bought an apple locally and ate it as I walked. It was crisp, juicy and sweet, with just enough sharpness to make me reach for another bite.
Seeing where the fruit grew made it more interesting than buying one at home. Apples are an important crop in Kinnaur, and the orchards are part of everyday life here. I also noticed apricots, another fruit grown in the region. A handful of dried apricots made an excellent snack to keep in my bag while exploring.
Siddu: The bread I would order again
My favourite discovery was siddu, a steamed wheat bread popular in Himachal Pradesh. Mine arrived warm, with ghee on the side. Its soft outer layer reveals a savoury filling, and I quickly understood why it is best eaten fresh.
Siddu feels substantial without being complicated. I enjoyed pulling off small pieces, adding a little ghee and taking my time. Fillings can vary, so I would happily try it again to see how another cook prepares it. If you’re looking at menus in hotels in Kinnaur, ask whether they serve siddu and what filling they use. That small question might lead to a good food conversation as well as a good meal.
A bowl of Thukpa after a day out in Kinnaur
Thukpa, or noodles cooked with fresh vegetables in a steaming hot and aromatic soup, was a dish I ordered for dinner. After having spent quite a long time outdoors, this was exactly what I needed. First I ate the noodles, then kept on scooping the broth until my bowl was empty.
Local products, as well as the influence of neighbouring areas, can be traced in Kinnaur’s cuisine. Thukpa is an example of this influence, being a comfort food dish I had not eaten before.
The everyday meals I looked forward to
It was interesting for me that some of my tastiest dishes turned out to be the most elementary. I was served a bowl of lentils with rice and vegetables, and various types of bread to enjoy my meal. Another thing I learned is that the region had long-grain crops such as barley and wheat in their diet. That helped me understand why hot, filling meals, featuring these cereal staples, were so common in the region.
What I’d Eat First on My Next Visit
If I returned to Kinnaur, I would start with a fresh apple, order siddu whenever I found it and save thukpa for an evening meal. I would also leave room for whatever a local cook recommended. That approach led me to some of my favourite tastes on this trip.
The food I remember most was fresh, wholesome, and enjoyable. The apples were excellent, but Kinnaur gave me much more to talk about at the table. Even though I arrived keen to see the orchards, I left keen to taste my way through the region again.
